Nicholas

Khvanchkara is a naturally semi-sweet red wine from the Khvanchkara appellation in Racha, a mountainous region of northwestern Georgia near Ambrolauri. Nicholas is made there from Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes grown on steep slopes between roughly 450 and 750 meters.

It is semi-sweet rather than dessert-sweet. Racha's mountain-continental climate of warm days, cool nights and long autumns lets the grapes build sugar slowly while keeping their acidity, and fermentation is arrested to preserve it. The appellation prohibits adding sugar or concentrated must. Nicholas balances raspberry and pomegranate against velvety tannins at 12% alcohol.

Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli, two indigenous Georgian varieties grown in Racha. The appellation sets the blend at 60 to 80 percent Alexandrouli, which brings aromatic finesse and red fruit, with 20 to 40 percent Mujuretuli for color, structure and balance.

Alexandrouli is an indigenous red grape of Racha, grown on the calcareous southern slopes of the Caucasus. Its berries are small, it ripens late and it yields little, which suits the region's steep, sunlit vineyards and cool nights. Soft and low in tannin, it carries raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry lifted by violet and dried rose.

Nuts, desserts, fruit, and blue cheese.

Serve Nicholas at 12 to 14°C (54 to 57°F). Cooler than a dry red. The chill keeps the sweetness fresh rather than syrupy.

Naturally semi-sweet red has no close equivalent on most wine lists. The nearest familiar point is a semi-sweet Lambrusco, but Khvanchkara is still rather than frizzante, and the sweetness is the grapes' own: the appellation prohibits adding sugar. Expect raspberry and pomegranate over velvety tannins.

Nicholas is sold in the United States through Total Wine & More, typically around $24.99 for a 750ml bottle. Retail price varies by state and store.